If you have a Shark Steam Pocket Mop, you may also have a broken handle and want to know your options for fixing it. The original steam mop handle consists of two internal sleeves to provide a slip connection, a screw then pulls the two sections of the handle together, clamping around the metal arm of the handle. These parts are a weak part of the handle. The internal plastic mounts break off from the main sections, leaving an upper handle that no longer secures to the metal arm.
Shark steam mop broken handle solutions
- Buy a replacement handle direct from Shark.
- Buy the new and improved Shark Professional Steam Pocket Mop with a handle redesign.
- The last and most economical solution is to go to your local hardware store and spend under $4 in hardware. Any additional costs will depend on your current inventory of tools, or ability to borrow tools if need be.
Steps to repairing the existing broken handle
We scoured our local Ace and True Value Hardware stores to come up with the easiest fix, along with readily available parts, while maintaining a factory finish, and surpassing the original durability. Depending on your region you may be able to find similar parts at other local hardware stores.
- 5/32″(4mm) or 11/64″(4.4mm) drill bit
- 13/64″(5.2mm) drill bit
- 2 ea. aluminum 3/16″ x .75″ binding screws (posts). (i) The next common available length is 1″, and they are a little too long. You can buy online if you prefer the 7/8″ binding screw. (ii) Also known as sex bolts and mating screws.
- 2 ea. aluminum 5/16″ x .5″ spacers. (i) The next common available length is .75″, and too long for this project. A 5/8″ spacer would have been perfect, but not necessary as you will see in the end.
- If the internal stems are not completely broken off on their own in all 4 spots, try to remove them. You can try to snap them off with a pliers, cut them off with a utility knife, or use a utility sheers.
- We will be using the area opposite of the existing holes as guides to drill through the other section of plastic handle. Using a 5/32″ or 11/64″ bit, drill the two holes through the plastic handle. These don’t have to be pretty, so something as simple as a utility knife will be fine to deburr the edges.
Note: The internal diameter of the metal handle holes are 8.5mm. This is not a common size for a spacer. If you want a more secure fit, you can try something like Original Gorilla Glue that expands and will then suspend and hold the spacer more tightly. Epoxy will work as well. I haven’t had any issues with not using an adhesive.
- Slide the plastic handle back over the metal shaft, lining up the holes.
- Slide the stem (female) section of each binding post through the original holes of the plastic handle and through the internal aluminum spacers.
- Take the threaded(male) section of the binding posts and insert them through the holes that were drilled. Screw and tighten the binding posts.
NOTE: The hardware is aluminum and a soft metal. If the slotted head side becomes marred from the screwdriver when tightening, you can use a small file to deburr the marks.